Monday, February 3, 2025

Everest - We Have A Date

With under 70 days (69 in fact, cue giggles) left, it is now official: April 13th marks Day 1 of the expedition. The itinerary has come through after many months of asking for it. The delay seems to be due to the precedent set by China last year in which they postponed the issuance of Tibet climbing permits until early May. Many people bailed on their climbs, some switched to the Nepal side, and a few trained in Nepal and ran across the border for a shot at the summit in a slim window in May. My guide says they believe CTMA will issue the permits in "mid-April" so we have to hope. We are anticipating not heading to Tibet immediately upon arrival. 

Rather than sitting in Kathmandu (low elevation) and losing my pre-acclimatization waiting for a permit that might not come, the plan is to fly into the foothills, trek up for about 11 days to a high camp, and then make a bid on Mera Peak (6476m), stay up near the summit a couple of nights, and descend, flying back to Kathmandu at the end of April. By this time, fingers crossed, the permits to Tibet will be waiting. 

Now early May, we will fly north and then drive across the Nepal/Tibet border as this is said to be more friendly and less bureaucratic than Lhasa (where we originally planned to fly). From there, we'd drive for about 3 days, working our way to Base Camp. After a few days of setting up camp, sorting gear, and resting, we have the Puja Ceremony and then head up the mountain. The plan would be to work up to Advanced Base Camp, do one or more rotations to some higher camps, and give the summit a go in late May.

As good as it feels to have a clearer picture of the plan, I am a little anxious. I never wanted to spend time in Nepal (tourists hiking in the region transport stomach and respiratory illness between stuffy tea houses along the route, and hygiene is questionable). The benefit of climbing from the north is that you can basically stare at Everest every day of the climb, and this will be short. The relative comforts of base camp will also be limited, which can help leave climbers primed for a good summit bid. But mostly, I am paranoid that the late issuance of the permit will put us in a position where we aren't ready when a good weather window opens and/or one doesn't and we run out of time before getting a good shot at the top. 

Regardless, the training continues.