Gear - Hands

Hands are the extremities of the body, meaning the higher you go and the colder it gets, the less blood gets pumped to these areas. Not only can frozen hands become very painful, but if they don't recover, they can become damaged and require amputation. More immediately, if you cannot work your hands, you cannot work the belay devices, the ascender, and the ropes. This is a major obstacle in getting down safely. 

• Marmot Expedition Mitts - My old major mittens are of the highest quality. The absolute best things to have on the hands when it's cold, but these mitts make working the ascender and carabineers challenging. 
• Outdoor Research Alti II Mittens - A substitute for the above, these are of equal quality and fit tighter, meaning that it is easier to work the ropes and tackle. I think they are too small for me and I will likely leave them. 
• Black Diamond Guide Gloves - Made for serious cold, these have the advantage of 5 digits; however, up really high, they might not be enough for safe use. Gloves are colder than mitts, so these might not be used with any regularity. 
• Outdoor Research Highcamp 3-Finger Gloves - The benefits of a mitt with added dexterity, allowing more warmth than a glove but a little more maneuverability. 
• Outdoor Research Stormtracker Sensor Gloves - For warmer days or for a mid-layer, these are light, fit tight, and add some protection from sun, wind, and cold. 
• Black Diamond Midweight Softshell - like the above, these can stand alone or be used under a mitt. 
• Lightweight gloves - useful for a base layer, these add minimal warmth but also keep the skin from being exposed when the outer layers need to come off (for opening packs, taking pictures, etc.).

Not Pictured: Packages of Hand Warmers 

Gear - Feet

Protecting the feet is paramount as you need them to walk and walking is what gets you up and down the mountain. 

• Approach: Mountain Wearhouse Extreme - These are all-conditions boots that are fine in town and can go up to Advanced Base Camp. They will be warm enough for the lower mountain and keep out some of the scree and water encountered along the way which can create blisters. 
• Double w/ Overboot: La Sportiva Olympus Mons - The king of mountaineering boots. An inner boot is tight to the foot, stabilizing the ankle and keeping the heat in. Then there is the outer boot which is firm to support crampons, add protection from the cold, the rock, and snow, and has a large overboot to protect from snow getting in as well as self-kicks from the crampons ruining pants. 
• Lounging: Flip Flops - easy on/off around camp when putting on the big boots is just too much effort. 
• Tent: Sierra Designs Down Booties - Pure luxury, these come on at the end of the day, good for keeping the piggies toasty. 
• Socks: lots: Smartwool Mountaineering Max, Everyday Diamond, etc. “There is one item of GI gear that can be the difference between a live grunt and a dead grunt: socks, cushioned soled OD green. Try and keep your feet dry while we're out humping. I want you to remember to change your socks whenever we stop. The Mekong will eat a grunt's feet right off his legs. There are two standing orders in this platoon. One, take good care of your feet, and two, try not to do anything stupid, like getting yourself killed.”

All good advice, Lieutenant Dan. 

Not pictured: Hiking gaiters to keep the little rocks out of my shoes. 

Gear - Head

 The body cannot survive without the head. So take care of it. 

• Jublo Glacier Glasses (x2) - Super sunglasses that block light from the bottom and sides. Another pair for back up in case one breaks or gets lost. If sun gets in the eyes it can burn the retinas and cause a condition called snow blindness, which can lead to a loss of vision. If this happens, a climber may not be able to get down under their own power). 
• Smith Goggles - To wear on summit night when the darkness is most, but to protect the eyes and face from wind and snow blasts. 
• Buffs (x2) - These keep sun off the next, wind and snow off the lower face, and can keep dust and germs out of the lungs. 
• Bucket hat - Keeps heat in and sun off the noggin and back of the neck, ears, nose
• Warm beanie - Keep that heat in. 
• Balaclava (one of 3 to choose from) - Wraps over the head and next, around the face, protecting it from the cold. 
• Hot Chillys Chil-block Half Mask - Like a balaclava only more minimal, and also helps keep cold air from going in the lungs. 
• Headlamps: Petzl Tikina 2 & Decathlon - one for tents and lower down, a fresh one for up high. 
• Helmet: Edelrid - for dangerous sections to keep the skull from being smacked by falling snow, ice, gear, or people. 

Not pictured: Oxygen mask 

Gear - Legs

The legs, like the torso, benefit from layers, but since it doesn't include protecting major organs, the purpose is a bit different. Also, a harness needs to fit over the pants so comfort and utility are important. 

• Base Layer - 3 pairs of technical base wear (Marmot, Decathlon) - Like the base layers on the torso, these are worn first. I have three pairs so that after multiple days of climbing on the mountain, I can swap them out and avoid stewing in my own filth for too long. 
• Fleece Layer (REI) - These pants go on next and add a lot of warmth. They are used in the cold up until the down layer is needed. 
• Mountain Hardwear Puff Pants - A luxury for the high camps. After a climb, I change into these in the tent. They are like a sleeping bag for your legs, soft and pillowy. 
• Rab Kangri Gore-Tex hardshell - The wind and waterproof layer that protects from the elements. These are worn on all climbs leading up to Everest and on Everest up until I need to switch to the down suit. 
• Trekking:  Arc'teryx pants - Used for the time before/after the climb and at base camp when the temps are good. 
• Mountain Hardware Tights (Not pictured) - A layer that adds compression and warmth. 

Not Pictured: Regular old boxer briefs for approach and lounging during laundry days

Gear - Upper Body

Keeping the core warm is crucial to survival on the mountain. High-quality layers are key to maintaining heat and balancing breathability and weight. 

• Base layer - Decathlon top. Worn under all other layers. It sits close to the skin to pull sweat off and dry quickly. 
• Black Diamond Apenglow Hoodie - a high-quality shirt that can act as a base layer as well, but this one has a hood to add to warmth preservation and prevent drafts from slipping down the neck. 
• Patagonia base layers (yellow and brown) - can be worn as base layers and are also fit for regular camp wear. 
• Lightweight Fleece (REI) - This layer adds some warmth but not a lot, so is good for wearing under shells. 
• Mountain Hardwear Fleece - a heavier fleece that adds warmth and cuts the wind; can be used as a jacket for hiking/walking around as well as under shells. 
• Cotopaxi Fuego down jacket - The down adds warmth and is lightweight. Can be a stand-alone coat or part of a layered system. 
• Arc'teryx Beta SL jacket - an outer shell that cuts wind and rain. Waterproof so helpful in the snow. This is the jacket worn on most of the climb (and all training climbs) before I have to switch out for the down suit. 

Not pictured: technical running shirts for lounging and approach to the mountain, North Face Windstopper jacket for causal wearing.