Everest - We Have A Date

With under 70 days (69 in fact, cue giggles) left, it is now official: April 13th marks Day 1 of the expedition. The itinerary has come through after many months of asking for it. The delay seems to be due to the precedent set by China last year in which they postponed the issuance of Tibet climbing permits until early May. Many people bailed on their climbs, some switched to the Nepal side, and a few trained in Nepal and ran across the border for a shot at the summit in a slim window in May. My guide says they believe CTMA will issue the permits in "mid-April" so we have to hope. We are anticipating not heading to Tibet immediately upon arrival. 

Rather than sitting in Kathmandu (low elevation) and losing my pre-acclimatization waiting for a permit that might not come, the plan is to fly into the foothills, trek up for about 11 days to a high camp, and then make a bid on Mera Peak (6476m), stay up near the summit a couple of nights, and descend, flying back to Kathmandu at the end of April. By this time, fingers crossed, the permits to Tibet will be waiting. 

Now early May, we will fly north and then drive across the Nepal/Tibet border as this is said to be more friendly and less bureaucratic than Lhasa (where we originally planned to fly). From there, we'd drive for about 3 days, working our way to Base Camp. After a few days of setting up camp, sorting gear, and resting, we have the Puja Ceremony and then head up the mountain. The plan would be to work up to Advanced Base Camp, do one or more rotations to some higher camps, and give the summit a go in late May.

As good as it feels to have a clearer picture of the plan, I am a little anxious. I never wanted to spend time in Nepal (tourists hiking in the region transport stomach and respiratory illness between stuffy tea houses along the route, and hygiene is questionable). The benefit of climbing from the north is that you can basically stare at Everest every day of the climb, and this will be short. The relative comforts of base camp will also be limited, which can help leave climbers primed for a good summit bid. But mostly, I am paranoid that the late issuance of the permit will put us in a position where we aren't ready when a good weather window opens and/or one doesn't and we run out of time before getting a good shot at the top. 

Regardless, the training continues. 

Gear - Sleeping

Sleeping up high is a challenge. No need to make it worse. Also, staying warm during extremely cold nights can also save energy or your life. 

• Pillow - Sea to Summit Aeros Premium and Big Angus pillow
• Sleeping bag Liner - Sea to Summit Reactor
• Sleeping Pads - Thermarest Prolite; Big Angus Boundry Deluxe
• Basecamp Sleeping Bag - Marmot Never Summer 0F
• Altitude Sleeping Bag - Mountian Hardware Lamina -30F

Gear - Climbing

On most other climbs, the climber has to bring a lot of items that are essential to staying on the mountain, like rope, ice screws, cams, quickdraws, stoves, gas, etc. Luckily, on Everest, the mountaineering association fixes all the ropes, significantly cutting down weight for individual teams. The support members will have tents and stoves set up in the camps as well. But there is plenty that has to be on me in order to make my way up and down. 

• Crampons: Black Diamond Sabertooth - These are used from the bottom of the North Col to the summit and back. Difficult to use over rock and scree, they are essential on snow and ice, and they are too difficult to take off and put on repeatedly so they stay on. 
• Trekking Poles: Black Diamond Expedition 3 - Poles help on the long hike in, and some climbers use them on the upper slopes in place of an axe for balance. 
• Ice Axe: Black Diamond Raven Pro - The tool of the mountaineer. The axe acts as a stabilizer with every step, and the pick can be used for self-arrests or to aid in steeper sections. The adez helps chop out snow (cutting steps from long ago, and for making platforms now). 
• Spatha Knief - Sometimes you gotta cut stuff.
• Petzel Ascender - Crucial for the fixed ropes, this device attaches to a rope and slides up, but it won't slide down. While it can add some aid to the climber, it is also a safety measure. 
• Belay: Black Diamond Super 8 and Black Diamond ATC - for use in belaying climbers and repelling/abseiling down the ropes. 
• Harness: Black Diamond Couloir - My harness is super lightweight because it is not used for taking hard falls off a rock wall; rather, it is flexible and thin, but strong enough to keep me tied to anchors and the rope. 
• Locking Carabiners and William Tri-Act Locker
• Mountain Hardwear 800-fill down jacket
  - When things are very cold, or when standing around at camps or at the base of a pitch, a thick jacket can really add a lot of warmth. 
• Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero Down Suit - The ultimate high-altitude clothing. Worn over a couple of base layers, this suit is worn from the higher camps up to the summit and back. 

I'll need something to haul all my gear in as well:

• Backpacks Arc'teryx Bora 95 and Gregory Forester
• Bag: REI Camp 4 Duffel (130L)

Gear - Hands

Hands are the extremities of the body, meaning the higher you go and the colder it gets, the less blood gets pumped to these areas. Not only can frozen hands become very painful, but if they don't recover, they can become damaged and require amputation. More immediately, if you cannot work your hands, you cannot work the belay devices, the ascender, and the ropes. This is a major obstacle in getting down safely. 

• Marmot Expedition Mitts - My old major mittens are of the highest quality. The absolute best things to have on the hands when it's cold, but these mitts make working the ascender and carabineers challenging. 
• Outdoor Research Alti II Mittens - A substitute for the above, these are of equal quality and fit tighter, meaning that it is easier to work the ropes and tackle. I think they are too small for me and I will likely leave them. 
• Black Diamond Guide Gloves - Made for serious cold, these have the advantage of 5 digits; however, up really high, they might not be enough for safe use. Gloves are colder than mitts, so these might not be used with any regularity. 
• Outdoor Research Highcamp 3-Finger Gloves - The benefits of a mitt with added dexterity, allowing more warmth than a glove but a little more maneuverability. 
• Outdoor Research Stormtracker Sensor Gloves - For warmer days or for a mid-layer, these are light, fit tight, and add some protection from sun, wind, and cold. 
• Black Diamond Midweight Softshell - like the above, these can stand alone or be used under a mitt. 
• Lightweight gloves - useful for a base layer, these add minimal warmth but also keep the skin from being exposed when the outer layers need to come off (for opening packs, taking pictures, etc.).

Not Pictured: Packages of Hand Warmers 

Gear - Feet

Protecting the feet is paramount as you need them to walk and walking is what gets you up and down the mountain. 

• Approach: Mountain Wearhouse Extreme - These are all-conditions boots that are fine in town and can go up to Advanced Base Camp. They will be warm enough for the lower mountain and keep out some of the scree and water encountered along the way which can create blisters. 
• Double w/ Overboot: La Sportiva Olympus Mons - The king of mountaineering boots. An inner boot is tight to the foot, stabilizing the ankle and keeping the heat in. Then there is the outer boot which is firm to support crampons, add protection from the cold, the rock, and snow, and has a large overboot to protect from snow getting in as well as self-kicks from the crampons ruining pants. 
• Lounging: Flip Flops - easy on/off around camp when putting on the big boots is just too much effort. 
• Tent: Sierra Designs Down Booties - Pure luxury, these come on at the end of the day, good for keeping the piggies toasty. 
• Socks: lots: Smartwool Mountaineering Max, Everyday Diamond, etc. “There is one item of GI gear that can be the difference between a live grunt and a dead grunt: socks, cushioned soled OD green. Try and keep your feet dry while we're out humping. I want you to remember to change your socks whenever we stop. The Mekong will eat a grunt's feet right off his legs. There are two standing orders in this platoon. One, take good care of your feet, and two, try not to do anything stupid, like getting yourself killed.”

All good advice, Lieutenant Dan. 

Not pictured: Hiking gaiters to keep the little rocks out of my shoes. 

Gear - Head

 The body cannot survive without the head. So take care of it. 

• Jublo Glacier Glasses (x2) - Super sunglasses that block light from the bottom and sides. Another pair for back up in case one breaks or gets lost. If sun gets in the eyes it can burn the retinas and cause a condition called snow blindness, which can lead to a loss of vision. If this happens, a climber may not be able to get down under their own power). 
• Smith Goggles - To wear on summit night when the darkness is most, but to protect the eyes and face from wind and snow blasts. 
• Buffs (x2) - These keep sun off the next, wind and snow off the lower face, and can keep dust and germs out of the lungs. 
• Bucket hat - Keeps heat in and sun off the noggin and back of the neck, ears, nose
• Warm beanie - Keep that heat in. 
• Balaclava (one of 3 to choose from) - Wraps over the head and next, around the face, protecting it from the cold. 
• Hot Chillys Chil-block Half Mask - Like a balaclava only more minimal, and also helps keep cold air from going in the lungs. 
• Headlamps: Petzl Tikina 2 & Decathlon - one for tents and lower down, a fresh one for up high. 
• Helmet: Edelrid - for dangerous sections to keep the skull from being smacked by falling snow, ice, gear, or people. 

Not pictured: Oxygen mask 

Gear - Legs

The legs, like the torso, benefit from layers, but since it doesn't include protecting major organs, the purpose is a bit different. Also, a harness needs to fit over the pants so comfort and utility are important. 

• Base Layer - 3 pairs of technical base wear (Marmot, Decathlon) - Like the base layers on the torso, these are worn first. I have three pairs so that after multiple days of climbing on the mountain, I can swap them out and avoid stewing in my own filth for too long. 
• Fleece Layer (REI) - These pants go on next and add a lot of warmth. They are used in the cold up until the down layer is needed. 
• Mountain Hardwear Puff Pants - A luxury for the high camps. After a climb, I change into these in the tent. They are like a sleeping bag for your legs, soft and pillowy. 
• Rab Kangri Gore-Tex hardshell - The wind and waterproof layer that protects from the elements. These are worn on all climbs leading up to Everest and on Everest up until I need to switch to the down suit. 
• Trekking:  Arc'teryx pants - Used for the time before/after the climb and at base camp when the temps are good. 
• Mountain Hardware Tights (Not pictured) - A layer that adds compression and warmth. 

Not Pictured: Regular old boxer briefs for approach and lounging during laundry days